Lake Kivu, looking toward the Congo
Going to Goma was high up on my agenda. I had set my mind to see what the Congolese side of the lake looked like and maybe even trek the Gorillas from this side of the Virungas Mountains. So what a shock when I came across a blog informing that officials now charge a scandalous 275 USD for a visa issued at the border.
What first seemed like a hoax was later confirmed by John, the hotel manager of the Step Down Hotel, in Kigali. He recommended trying the Congolese Embassy in Kigali. By the time my moto driver found it, it had closed for the weekend. I could not spend three more days in Kigali and simply gave up on the idea…
When a street sign in Gisenye said, “Congolese border 6 kilometers”, I hopped on a Moto. At least I wanted to steal a look across! Halfway there, a convoy of United Nations busses full of soldiers overtook us. I could not wait to see why they were rushing to the border.
If it had not been for the about hundred UN soldiers (all Indians and mostly Sikhs) who had by then poured out of their vehicles, the border would have been deserted of travelers. Maybe three people were queuing at immigration, a small window opening into the street. Heavily armed and grim looking soldiers watched over the crowd: I did not even consider taking out my camera.
The Sikhs kept staring at me, the only woman running around, a white one on top of that. I decided enough was enough. Luckily my Moto driver had waited for me and I did not need to bargain for transport in this weird setting.
Later locals told me that they deeply distrust UN soldiers. Knowing their role in the genocide, it did not come as a surprise…
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