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Kiev – Between godly and worldly

The shining onion-shaped domes of  Lavra Monastery identify it from afar as an important center of Orthodox Christianity in Eastern Europe and are testimony of Kiev’s historic importance. Other musems are less godly, like the Motherland Museum heralded by a gigantic statue. It exhibits items from the Great War and more recent one, the war at its eastern border. The real bummer is the Museum of Corruption, which blows your mind. One of many residences for former president Yanukovych, he burned tax money for the most soulless homes.

Kiev Pechersk Lavra  –  Kiev Monastery of the Caves 11th century

The monastery consists of various buildings, the most dominant is the church. It is a replica though, the original church had been destroyed by the Communist and only rebuilt in this century.  From the edges of the terrain you have a great view of the River Dnipro, other churches and the most prominent the Motherland Statue. Evening are a great time to take photos. Another eye-catcher is Lavra Belltower.

 

Kiev Pechersk Lavra  –  Kiev Monastery of the Caves 11th century

 

Kiev Pechersk Lavra  –  Kiev Monastery of the Caves + Belltower

The most unique attraction though is the maze of low tunnels to the underground church, which gives the monastery its name.  During its  founding days in 1080 monks lived  in caves, because they felt this was the way to be in touch with god. Even when the first building went up, some remained in the caves. One of the two founders is said to have been so ascetic that he only ate a few times a week. What a difference to the monks nowadays who drive around in big Range Rovers.

Pilgrims jammed the narrow tunnels when I visited on a rainy Monday afternoon, but I was told that it was a quiet day. Usually there are long lines outside. What I found absolutely crazy was  that all visitors get little candles to find their way around. CANDLES that smoke up 16th century wall paintings and altars and make breathing difficult. When I asked why candles, I got the answer flashlights would be improper.

 

St. Sophies Cathedral, copied an named after Constantinopel’s Hagia Sophia

 

Kiev – Friendship Arch built in 1982 to remember the 60th anniversary of the USSR, now a pain in the eyes of many Ukrainians

 

War Museum – Motherland Statue

The 100m high Motherland Statue sits on top the huge  National Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War. Naturally the items on display cover exactly that part of Ukraine’s history: weapons left behind by the Germans, photos of heroes, spies and heart-breaking stories of Ukrainian slave workers in Nazi Germany. When I  visited there was a new exhibition about the  current situation in the “Ukrainian East”.

 

Postcard sent by Ukrainian slave worker to her family at Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War

 

War Museum  – new exhibition was added called the “Ukrainian East” where the country fights a war against Russian supported separatists. 

The official Ukrainian wording goes like this “The story of the victories and sacrifices of the patriots of Ukraine, who in the eastern territories of our state defend its sovereignty against  the Russian aggressor.” The display includes Russian armored vehicles conquered by Ukraine troops which serve as proof that Russia is behind the conflict.

Russian armored vehicles captured by Ukrainian army outside of Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War

Actually a large part of the museum is outside in the park: tanks, trucks, planes and even intercontinental missiles are on display. These weapons had seen Afghanistan and other countries where the Soviet Union  got involved mainly during the Cold War.

Display of tanks and planes outside of Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War

The Motherland Statue was opened in 1981 in a ceremony attended by Soviet president Leonid Brezhnev. Even then the immense costs were criticized and this controversy continues till today. Critics insist it should be torn down and the metal used for more meaningful purposes.  Due to the high cost for keeping the flame going it uses up to 400 m3 of gas per hour)  it can only burn on the biggest national holidays.

Motherland Statue on top of National Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War

In April 2015, the parliament of Ukraine outlawed Soviet and Communist symbols, street names and monuments, this law exempts World War II memorials. In  February 2018 it was ordered that the state emblem of the Soviet Union on the shield of the monument should be removed. However, it is still  there today.

Corruption Museum – former home of ex-president Yanukovych

Honka, a Finnish-style hunting lodge, was ONE of 12 residences the Ukrainian ex-president Yanukovych’s (2010-2014). The décor and furniture of this mansion are obscenely expensive and reveals the dimension of his corruption. Cold, soulless luxury.  I posted 40 photos after my visit, not enough to help understand the enormity of this theft of public funds.

Museum of Corruption:  a Finnish-style hunting lodge, was ONE of 12 residences the Ukrainian ex-president Yanukovych’s (2010-2014). 

 

The grounds are gigantic. Nevertheless Yanukovych planned to  include the opposite shore of the river into his property

The grounds are so vast that some areas are  only  conveniently reached by golf carts. Within easy reach are the private zoo, an underground shooting range, a 18-hole golf course, a tennis court, a bowling alley, a gigantic spa and small farm.  By wandering through he building I could literally  sense how greedy hawks gathered around this billionaire and planted the craziest ideas ever in his head, like chandeliers totaling €36.000.000.

Former home of ex-president Yanukovych, soulless luxury

 

Museum of Corruption, former home of ex-president Yanukovych, soulless luxury

 

The mansion is decorated with chandeliers totaling €36.000.000.  

 

Museum of Corruption, former home of ex-president Yanukovych, soulless, tasteless luxury

After visiting this disgusting display  of corruption I completely understood why 1.000.000 people gathered on Kiev’s Madjan to protest against Yanukovych.  Over 3000 people camped there for three months during arctic temperatures. Some of those took over this mansion and now organize guided tours.

The video by the NYT shows the mansion right after Yanukovych fled to Russia, where is still lives.

www.nytimes.com/video/world/europe/100000002732759/inside-the-museum-of-corruption.html

Flea-market  outside Kiev

On the way to the corruption museum I passed a flea market and could not resist stopping. I came across a very different world. The poverty showed  in the people’s clothing, their looks and what they sold. But I did find something, a beautiful belt buckle with the Soviet Star on it. It must have once been part  on a soldier’s uniform.

Fleamarket on the edge of Kiev

Flea market

Vendor at flea market

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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