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Author Archive | Gilles & Heidi

Coughing Chimpanzees at Budongo Forest

By on 22. August 2011 in Uganda
Chimpanzee (Pan Troglodytes), Budongo Forest, Murchison Falls National Park, North Uganda, Africa

Chimpanzee (Pan Troglodytes), Budongo Forest, Murchison Falls National Park, North Uganda, Africa

Lucky us – famous Sauda was assigned to be our guide! She has become a bit of a celebrity as she became the first female ranger in Uganda 17 years ago. This bit of news even found its way into the Lonely Planet. The night before our chimps track, it had rained heavily. So when we finally found them in a huge fig tree, most of them where still in their nests, many coughing, feeling cold, wet and miserable… None of them felt coming down. Waiting high up for the sun to dry them off seemed more rewarding. Continue Reading →

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Nile Safari Lodge – Just Like Paradise…

By on 21. August 2011 in Uganda
African Fish Eagle (Haliaeetus Vocifer), Murchison Falls National Park, North Uganda, Africa

African Fish Eagle (Haliaeetus Vocifer), Murchison Falls National Park, North Uganda, Africa

The Nile Safari Lodge, overlooking the Victoria Nile, is probably the most service orientated place we have ever stayed at. To give a few examples: cool, wet towels are handed to the dusty travelers every time you drive into the parking lot. While you enjoy your superb dinner your bed is being “prepared”, which means the wide mosquito net is lowered, ready for you to crawl into your bed. These are in large wooden bungalows on stilts, with a bathroom and an adjacent outside shower. Warm water is delivered upon request and filled into a bucket high up. Continue Reading →

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Murchison Falls From Below And On Top

By on 21. August 2011 in Uganda
Murchison Falls National Park, North Uganda, Africa

Murchison Falls National Park, North Uganda, Africa

A tiny boat stirred by Captain Nelson navigated us slowly and gently up the Victoria Nile, heading to Murchison Falls. A bit of wildlife wandered along the banks, but otherwise it was the smooth ride and the witty co-passengers that made the trip special.

Near the narrow gap, where the Nile forces its way through the rocks, our boat stopped midstream, giving us a few minutes to click away. The gushing waterfall was announced by small foamy chunks floating downstream. Informed passengers explained that these “white horses” are caused by the immense pressure the water is exposed to. Continue Reading →

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Outstanding Game Viewing In Murchison Falls NP

By on 20. August 2011 in Uganda
Lion (Panthera Leo), Murchison Falls National Park, North Uganda, Africa

Lion (Panthera Leo), Murchison Falls National Park, North Uganda, Africa

A tiny roll on / roll off ferry takes a maximum of eight cars plus passengers across to the western banks of the Nile. This is where most of the animals are. Shortly before 07:00 am, all jeeps rush for the first ferry. Who would want to miss the lions? Chances to find them early morning are best, and they did not let us down! On both drives we saw two young males, one munching an antelope! Buffaloes, Antelopes, Jackson’s Hart Beasts, Waterbucks and Giraffes roam the park in abundance. Continue Reading →

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Butiaba – Smuggler’s Nest On Lake Albert

By on 20. August 2011 in Uganda
Fisher village of Butiaba, on the shores of Lake Albert, North Uganda, Africa

Fisher village of Butiaba, on the shores of Lake Albert, North Uganda, Africa

“Butiaba is the prime port for smuggling goods in and out of the Congo”, Paul confided to Heidi. This was back in Rwanda, where she met the Australian biker. Only a few words, but enough to awaken our adventurous spirit… Fate had it that weeks later we met Paul exactly in Butiaba. Our original plan was to join him in northern Uganda, where Paul was filming a documentary on former child soldiers. But time restrains and road conditions in the rain made it impossible. Continue Reading →

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Semliki – So What?

By on 19. August 2011 in Uganda
Grey Crowned Crane (Balearica Regulorum), also called "The Pride of Uganda", Bigodi Wetland, near Kibale Forest, West Uganda, Africa

Grey Crowned Crane (Balearica Regulorum), also called “The Pride of Uganda”, Bigodi Wetland, near Kibale Forest, West Uganda, Africa

Semliki makes you sweat! The sudden difference in temperature when driving down from chilly Fort Portal is overwhelming. With 660 meters above sea level, it was the lowest point we reached in Uganda. Known for its vast variety of birds, Semliki National Park has attracted an increasing, but still small number of nature lovers. In 2010, about 3.000 visitors were counted. These include lots of local school kids, who primarily come to see the hot springs. We shared the mini – geysers with such a group, about 100 teenagers from a Muslim private school. Even with whiffs of scorching hot steam blowing into their faces, they were incredibly well behaved: none of the pushing and shouting you would observe in our country. None of us questioned the guide’s argument that you can cook an egg in boiling water in six minutes. Continue Reading →

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Monkey Business Goes Eco

By on 18. August 2011 in Uganda
Black and White Colobus Monkey (Colobus guereza), Bigodi Wetland, near Kibale Rainforest, North Uganda, Africa

Black and White Colobus Monkey (Colobus guereza), Bigodi Wetland, near Kibale Rainforest, North Uganda, Africa

Kibale Rain Forest has turned into a very successful ecotourism project that benefits all parties involved. The animals of course, the marveling visitors and the community, which receives all the income from the budding grass root tourism initiated back in 1992. Neighboring Bigodi Wetland, a high altitude swamp, hosts a large population of different kinds of monkeys and lots of birds. The local celebrity is the Great Blue Turaco. In flight its bright blue feather show best and give it a truly majestic look. Continue Reading →

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Gourmet Food And A Bit Of Safari Feel

By on 17. August 2011 in Uganda
Sunset over Mountain of the Moon Lodge, Fort Portal, North Uganda, Africa

Sunset over Mountain of the Moon Lodge, Fort Portal, North Uganda, Africa

Not only chimps find yummy food in Kibale, also the visiting tourists. As soon as we arrived at the Kibale Forest Camp, the dinner menu was cited to us and our taste buds jumped in action, only to be forced to wait another couple of hours. These can be spent following a short walk around the camp or listening to the singing of the village children. The chef’s creations at the Kibale Forest Camp will not be forgotten, especially the chocolate cake, our first sweet dish in Uganda. In the nicely decorated restaurant, a large Belgium family celebrated the birthday of one of their many children. It meant more cake for us, when the staff surprised the happy teenager with a big cake and a cheerful “Happy Birthday”. Continue Reading →

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Kibale Rainforest – Chimps Are A Lot Like Us

By on 17. August 2011 in Uganda
Alpha Male Chimpanzee (Pan Troglodytes), Kibale Rainforest, North Uganda, Africa

Alpha Male Chimpanzee (Pan Troglodytes), Kibale Rainforest, North Uganda, Africa

Kibale Rainforest is promoted as the best place for tracking chimpanzees in Africa. For us, it was definitely the easiest! After a short but brisk walk along a well trodden path, a large Chimpanzee family was thrashing through the trees and bushes, ripping off leaves, jumping, climbing, grooming each other or simply looking at us. An alpha male was sitting in a tree fork, waiting for a female (which was very obvious!), and studied us in a rather oblivious manner. The lady never came and eventually he trotted off to the clicking of our cameras. Continue Reading →

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Hard Work For Little Money

By on 16. August 2011 in Uganda

Eucalyptus Turned Charcoal & Tea Picking

Tea Picking, West Uganda, Africa

Tea Picking, West Uganda, Africa

On one of our strolls in the hills around Lake Bunyonyi, we came across three young men neatly stacking newly cut eucalyptus trees. Five days of work had gone into cutting down the trees and piling up the stack, they told us. Adding that now they had to cover it with soil and set in on fire. After another five day this would produce 35 bags of precious charcoal. The guys, by pointing at a large piece of burned slope stressed how important it was to guard the smoldering fire. Others had obviously been less careful! The charcoal maker pay the owner of the plot for cutting down the trees, but searing the grass would add to their bill. Continue Reading →

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