Actually we were on our way to the salt mines, but we got there so early in the morning that the workers and especially the caravans had not arrived yet. So we headed for Lake Asale, just in time for the sunrise. This amazing sight immediately brought back memories of the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia. Lake Asal, 116 meters below sea level, lacks its vastness and enormity, but nevertheless it is extraordinary. Continue Reading →
Author Archive | Gilles & Heidi
Afar Salt Mines
Young men slave away in these salt fields from dusk to dawn, an hour’s walk from the village. None of us would have dreamed doing this hike, but for the Afar and Tigrians, this is only the warm up for a long day of lifting, breaking and chiseling chunks of salt from the ground. Continue Reading →
Tea Time? Only While Camel Watching!
With nowhere to hide from the sun we had to spend a lot of time dozing inside our stuffy hut. In the afternoon we never had less than 42 degrees Celsius (110 degrees Fahrenheit) in this oven-like shelter. Once in a while the wind picked up and the whirling dust engulfed the entire village. But at least this gave a bit of relief from the heat. Continue Reading →
Black Water
The order of our Afar guide and the soldiers who escorted us was very clear when we approached this area, called Black Water. “Move only in single file and don’t walk anywhere but on this path”. With wobbly knees we followed suit. The surface made crunching noises and we wondered how deep we would fall if it broke. All the way down to the center of this planet? Continue Reading →
Dallol – An Ever Changing Experience
We got there at around 07:00 am when the light was perfect and the temperature still pleasant. On the way in, Christos could not resist but racing across the salt plain, driving around 100 km / h. A short walk takes you through an area that reminds of a field of corals of all possible colors. Continue Reading →
Dallol – Diabolically Beautiful
Surreal, out of this world, incredibly beautiful – none of these adjectives seems appropriate to describe this unique place: a landscape of multi-colored hot springs and bizarre formations. In the midst of a bubbling sulphurous lake floats a small conical island. Its shore is lined with what looks like bright yellow rippled rafts. Somehow it looks like a Coral Reef, just outside of the water. Continue Reading →
Halima’s Family
Another celebrity of Hamed Ale is Halima’s grandmother, Fatouma. She is one of the few Afar women who publicly have spoken out against female mutilation. She travelled all the way to Mekele to plea to the authorities. Continue Reading →
Socialising in Hamed Ale
We loved staying in Hamed Ale. Liza knew lots of people and our little camp attracted children and village VIPs alike. Halima, an amazing and charming nine year old girl, had bewitched all of us. She was around from dawn to dusk, bringing along various friends. Also the village chief hung out there, showing off a small gun fastened to his hips. A souvenir from his pilgrimage to Jeddah / Saudi Arabia he bragged, only to add that at the age of 63 he will soon marry his fifth wife, somewhere in her early twenties. So within minutes we learned that he was the father of no less than 23 children, with more to come. Continue Reading →
Hamed Ale
Living In The Most Hostile Environment
Upon arrival in Hamed Ale, a simple hut made from branches was assigned to us by the village chief. Christos was furious. He had paid for something airier, a place with a shaded area outside. Shade is precious in the Danakil, there is none anywhere. Nevertheless, all the screaming and arguing did not get us a better place. That meant squeezing into our hut between late morning and late afternoon, when temperatures went way above 40 degrees Celsius (above 110 degrees Fahrenheit). There was no other way to be out of the sun. Continue Reading →
Ethiopia: Omo Valley – A Selection Of 25 Pictures
There are not many places like the Lower Omo Valley in Southern Ethiopia on this planet! Where do you find so many different cultures and ethnic groups in a relatively small area who still cling to their traditional way of life? This is absolutely unique, even the “Birr for Photo” business – Here you find a selection of 25 pictures from Ethiopia (Lower Omo Valley) Continue Reading →