A fantastic place to relax for a few days, absolutely quiet and, above all: we had it all to ourselves! Luckily the owner, Anchen and her son Derek, happened to be visiting from South Africa, and we had lots of interesting exchanges. Also the manager of fish Eagle Lodge, Camille from Congo, had lots of stories to share. He was an expert in African politics and we never got tired of listening to his eye-opening analysis. Continue Reading →
Author Archive | Gilles & Heidi
Gule Wa Nkulu
Driving in a very rural area, we spotted the first Gule Wa Nkulu, a young man hidden behind a mask and with white broad stripes painted all over his body. Excited we stopped, having read about this tradition. Continue Reading →
Rock Art With A View
We never miss Rock Art, no matter where we go. This one, in Chongoni, is easily accessible and comes with a terrific view over the area of Dedzar, about an hour south of the capital Lilongwe. Before we started out, we stopped for lunch at the famous pottery shop and restaurant in Dedzar, where we also got the proper information as to which are the best rock paintings. There are so many, spread out in different directions and most only accessible after long walks. Continue Reading →
An Unexpected Visitor
When you least expect it, the most marvelous things happen. After our disappointing Sunset Jeep Safari, we gathered around the campfire to enjoy a cool beer. Within minutes a young South African started to annoy us big time, by hollering at the top of his voice when speaking to the people sitting around the fire. Continue Reading →
Liwonde National Park – More Stories Than Animals
We of knew that Malawi was not a safari destination. Nevertheless, we spent two days at the Bushman’s Baobabs Lodge at the edge of Liwonde National Park. A canoe Safari took us on the Shire River and its shores studded with reeds. A few hippos, lots of waterbucks and some birds were the wildlife we encountered. On a Sunset Jeep Safari, we came across a few elephants inhaling dust and blowing it onto each other to cool themselves, the absolute highlight of this excursion. Otherwise, again lots of waterbucks, warthogs and a beautiful kudu were really all we saw. Continue Reading →
Malawi – Bring Your VISA Card… And Cash!
The tedious trip from the Mozambiquean border to Blantyre made us decide to get our own transport, no matter what. An undertaking that required us to wait out the weekend in Blantyre for the bank and car hire to open. On Monday morning, we were faced with an unexpected odyssey! Continue Reading →
Entering Malawi
Leaving Mozambique and entering Malawi was quick and painless. Luckily, on the Malawian side, young men on motorbikes waited to take people across the 4 kilometer stretch between the two countries. We had not expected the borders to be so far apart and without them we would have had to walk the hilly road with our backpacks. Continue Reading →
Mozambique – A Tough Travel Experience
Back in 2012 Heidi thought this was the toughest country she had ever traveled. Transport is excruciatingly painful, busses and chapas are packed to the rim, with music blasting all through the night. And, Mozambique is an expensive country to travel! This shows with entering the country, when tourists have to dish out 80 Euros for a visa. Simple rooms go for minimum 40 Euro and food is not cheap either. Continue Reading →
Bumping Farewell In Tete
The name Tete has a certain ring to it, a place you want to visit. Besides that, who is not interested in visiting a booming mining town all around, with all this coal around it? The other unique attraction is the Cassasso Dam about two hours upriver, the world’s fifths largest dam (hard to believe that Mozambique suffers from regular power breakdowns) and Mozambique’s hottest city. Continue Reading →
Tofo: Beaches & Diving Up
Every house and every shack is part of the tourist industry. Tofo offers all kinds of accommodation, although the backpackers all seem to huddle together at Fatima’s. You can get cheaper rooms with more comfort, but it is the social center of Tofo, not only for the backpackers. Continue Reading →