Mai Shum, Queen of Sheba’s Swimming Pool, Aksum, Ethiopia
One morning we hung out at the Queen of Sheba Swimming Pool. Not that the very queen ever did her laps here. The huge basin full of rain water has always served the locals for washing clothes and bodies, as an elderly woman perfectly described through gestures. Continue Reading →
The Great Stele, Main Stelae Field, Aksum, Ethiopia
What has put Axum on the tourist radar goes beyond Christian times. Superbly carved Stelae from those times still point 35 meters into the sky. Then they marked the tombs of royalty and nobility. Continue Reading →
The Tombs of King Kaleb, Aksum, Ethiopia
Listen to Ethiopians and you come to believe that pretty much everything started and happened in Aksum…
Wolleka, a Falasha Village near Gonder, Ethiopia
Driving back to Gonder from the Siam Mountains, we passed through a former Falasha Village, a reminder of Ethiopia’s black Jews. Nowadays, only two of the Falashas live in the village. The old synagogue is mainly for the few tourists passing by, together with the many souvenir shops selling kitsch made from clay displaying King Solomon in love with the Queen of Sheba and the omnipresent Star of David. But these have to be covered by plastic sheets, otherwise they would become one with the dust carried from the nearby road. Continue Reading →
Kosoye, a Viewpoint on the Simien Mountains, Simian Mountains National Park, Ethiopia
Most tourists travel Ethiopia through pre-arranged tours. The lack of infrastructure, like reliable public transport, good roads and often the sheer impossibility to make a reservation from abroad are real shortcomings. Add eMails that bounce back, incorrect phone numbers and few people who speak English! Continue Reading →
Market in Lalibela, Ethiopia
Walking the streets of Gonder all day we found them surprisingly void of foreigners. Like in Bahir Dar, we only encountered tourists at historic landmarks or at certain restaurants and hotels. In Gonder, the Faranji hangout was nice Hotel Quara, with its huge terrace overlooking the Piazza. This is basically a huge roundabout without hardly any traffic, Gonder’s very center. Continue Reading →
Fasilida’s Casstle, Fasil Ghebbi, the Royal Enclosure, Gonder, Ethiopia
Modern day Gondar we found a city of extremes – modern urbanites lives in stark contrast with those just surviving in heart breaking poverty. Every evening, the bar of our hotel was packed with cheerful locals eating well and guzzling down beer after beer. Outside, old men hid from the chilly nights under pieces of corrugated iron. Continue Reading →
The Source of the Blue Nile at Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia
The Blue Nile gently carried our small boat through its outlet from Lake Tana. Indeed a moving experience. We imagined weary explorers worn down by malaria and exhausted by their rough journey, finally reaching the very place people have fantasized about for thousands of years… Continue Reading →
Bet Maryam Monastery, Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia
These 16th and 17th century monasteries do not look like anything we expect a monastery to look like. First of all, they are circular building. Straw maps shield the walkway that circles the very church. The top of the roof is adorned with a heavy iron cross, often decorated with ostrich eggs. The inside of these monasteries are decorated with the most spectacular colorful wall paintings, telling the story of the bible and many more legends. Continue Reading →
Bet Maryam Monastery, Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia
The picturesque town of Bahir Dar is the gateway to over 40 ancient monasteries that dot the shores and islands of Lake Tana. It is also the source of the Blue Nile, which fascinated ancient Egyptians and modern day explorers alike. Even 21st century tourists are still drawn in by the romanticizing tales and exotic flair. Continue Reading →
