Salt Lake, Lake Asale, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia
Actually we were on our way to the salt mines, but we got there so early in the morning that the workers and especially the caravans had not arrived yet. So we headed for Lake Asale, just in time for the sunrise. This amazing sight immediately brought back memories of the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia. Lake Asal, 116 meters below sea level, lacks its vastness and enormity, but nevertheless it is extraordinary. Continue Reading →
Afar worker in the salt mines of Dallol, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia
Young men slave away in these salt fields from dusk to dawn, an hour’s walk from the village. None of us would have dreamed doing this hike, but for the Afar and Tigrians, this is only the warm up for a long day of lifting, breaking and chiseling chunks of salt from the ground. Continue Reading →
Camel caravan carrying salt from the mines in Dallol, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia
With nowhere to hide from the sun we had to spend a lot of time dozing inside our stuffy hut. In the afternoon we never had less than 42 degrees Celsius (110 degrees Fahrenheit) in this oven-like shelter. Once in a while the wind picked up and the whirling dust engulfed the entire village. But at least this gave a bit of relief from the heat. Continue Reading →
Potassium Lake or Black Water, Dallol, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia
The order of our Afar guide and the soldiers who escorted us was very clear when we approached this area, called Black Water. “Move only in single file and don’t walk anywhere but on this path”. With wobbly knees we followed suit. The surface made crunching noises and we wondered how deep we would fall if it broke. All the way down to the center of this planet? Continue Reading →
Sulphure formations of various colors and shapes, Dallol, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia
We got there at around 07:00 am when the light was perfect and the temperature still pleasant. On the way in, Christos could not resist but racing across the salt plain, driving around 100 km / h. A short walk takes you through an area that reminds of a field of corals of all possible colors. Continue Reading →
Sulphure rock formations of various colors, Dallol, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia
Surreal, out of this world, incredibly beautiful – none of these adjectives seems appropriate to describe this unique place: a landscape of multi-colored hot springs and bizarre formations. In the midst of a bubbling sulphurous lake floats a small conical island. Its shore is lined with what looks like bright yellow rippled rafts. Somehow it looks like a Coral Reef, just outside of the water. Continue Reading →
Afar women with scars as a sign of beauty, village of Hamed Ale, Danakil Depression
Another celebrity of Hamed Ale is Halima’s grandmother, Fatouma. She is one of the few Afar women who publicly have spoken out against female mutilation. She travelled all the way to Mekele to plea to the authorities. Continue Reading →
Young Afar girl playing, Afar village of Hamed Ale, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia
We loved staying in Hamed Ale. Liza knew lots of people and our little camp attracted children and village VIPs alike. Halima, an amazing and charming nine year old girl, had bewitched all of us. She was around from dawn to dusk, bringing along various friends. Also the village chief hung out there, showing off a small gun fastened to his hips. A souvenir from his pilgrimage to Jeddah / Saudi Arabia he bragged, only to add that at the age of 63 he will soon marry his fifth wife, somewhere in her early twenties. So within minutes we learned that he was the father of no less than 23 children, with more to come. Continue Reading →
Hut in the Afar village of Hamed Ale, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia
Upon arrival in Hamed Ale, a simple hut made from branches was assigned to us by the village chief. Christos was furious. He had paid for something airier, a place with a shaded area outside. Shade is precious in the Danakil, there is none anywhere. Nevertheless, all the screaming and arguing did not get us a better place. That meant squeezing into our hut between late morning and late afternoon, when temperatures went way above 40 degrees Celsius (above 110 degrees Fahrenheit). There was no other way to be out of the sun. Continue Reading →
Hut in the Afar village of Hamed Ale, Danakil Depression, Ethiopia
The police station outside of the village was deserted. It was past 11:00 am and the heat had already brought life to a complete standstill. So Liza and Heidi went to look for the very chief to get our permit for the Danakil. Continue Reading →
