For many the country is still associated with Hezbollah and Lebanon’s Civil War, even 20 Years after it ended. What I found was a land of stunning archeological sites, amazing scenery and the best food ever. Every possible civilization that passed through the Middle East has left its traces. I travelled the country alone in October 2018 and not for one tiny second did I feel unsafe. Just the opposite, the Lebanese bend backwards to make you feel welcome. The glamorous days may have passed but the bar and restaurant scene in the districts of Hamra and Gemmayze are as cool and bohemian as in todays Paris.