Vilankulos, during low tide the water retreats leaving sand bars and small pool of water in spetctacular colours - Picture by Jason Risley
You think you have seen all the beaches in the world and nothing can surprise you? Try Vilankulo! During high tide they look like many others, but low tide creates a magic spectacle. The ocean retreats, seems to disappear: sand as far as you can see! Not without leaving little streams or puddles in all different colors, from light blue to turquoise, a kaleidoscope of breathtaking colors. The scenery, the shapes of the little waterworks transforms constantly with the changing tide. German tourists proudly compared this spectacle to the “Wattenmeer” in northern Germany, minus the play of colors, of course.
Vilankulo has two faces. The “town” on the one hand, with the typical infrastructure of such a place: banks, businesses, bus stops, a large market and the beachfront. On the other hand, some more upscale hotels, as well as a fishing village with a few backpackers are thrown in around the bend. How long will it take for most fishermen to realize that turning their beachfront property into a lodge or hostel may be more lucrative than pulling these net in and out every night?
So far huts in carefully swept compounds are the rule, with children playing in the wide sandy roads that hopefully will never be paved. Wading through the heavy sand (and sadly quite a lot of litter), it is hard to imagine that this has become a popular tourist destination in Mozambique. I tried to imagine what it is like during the South African school holidays…
Tourism is good business for those who act quickly here: Zombie Cucumbers, where I stayed, had been taken over by a Belgium couple last March and their flyers were up and down Mozambique’s coast and brought them quite some backpacking business. But prices were dear: a simple “chalet” with bathroom outside was 1.500 Meticais (50 USD), so I ended up in a huge, round hut - the dorm. My bed was a mattress on the floor covered by a mosquito net for 400 Meticais (15 USD). Anywhere you walked was sand so it was impossible to keep the sand out of the bed, especially with a door missing.
The place is being turned upside down and more upscale. The hammering, sawing and workers running around getting the new rooms ready could not be missed. Some really nice changes were already in place, like the new outdoor restaurant, where pricy but yummy food is served. Absolutely scandalous were their prices for drinks, 120 Meticais (4 USD) for a glass of wine from a box (!), whereas in Chimoio, an excellent “vino” could be had for 40 Meticais. A short stroll into town gets you in touch with local prices: 15 to 20 Meticais for a big bowl of soup, 5 Meticais for a couple of tangerines.
My favorite place in Vilankulo was the southern end of the beach, in front of the Odyssea Dive Center. It’s the most scenic part and where the fishermen fix their boats, bring in the catch and untangle it from the big nets.
Picture by Jason Risley.
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