I didn’t know what to expect. All I ever associated with Yervan was the bad joke about Radio Yerevan during Communist days. By and by I discovered a thriving, enterprising city. Businesses are open seven days a week, often until late in the evening.
What Yerevan has plenty of is museums. The must-see: the Genocide Museum – a powerful and well-made reminder of the Armenian Genocide in 1915. About 1,5 million Armenians fell victim to the mass killing ordered by the decaying Ottoman Empire.
Equally fascinating for different reasons is the Matenadaran, which houses nearly 17,000 manuscripts and 30,000 other documents. The most precious ones are on display and leave you breathless: huge and tiny books, very old ones, beautifully decorated contracts and official communication between the Iranian and Armenian Empire.
Another must is “The Cascade”, because of its very unusual set-up. It is the home of the “Cafesjian Centre of Arts”. The very unusual exhibits are marveled at by gliding past them on an escalator that takes you to the different levels inside of the cascade.
Other museums I certainly can recommend is the National Gallery and the State History Museum, both conveniently placed in one building in the very very center.
Very unusual art, but hard to find is the Sergei Parajanov Museum, which reflects his artistic career. His cinematic style, which was totally out of step with the guiding principles of socialist realism, got him in trouble, his films were banned, Sergei imprisoned. Only in the more relaxed 8Os his films were shown at international film festivals.
The stunning cathedral should not be missed and Vernissage, an out-door market, and the best/ largest place to buy local souvenirs.
My fond memories of Yerevan definitely stem from the many friendly encounters with locals. Polyna Goylana, the cousin of a student of mine, showed me around the city and even came along on excursions to Dilijan, Lake Sevan and Ejaminitsin. The food served by her grandmother will never be forgotten.
Talking of friendly people: the staff at Envoy Hostel and the brand-new Holiday Hostel needs to be mentioned at this point. They all bent backwards to make me feel comfortable.
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